Campervan Kitchen Setup: Complete Guide
A well-designed campervan kitchen turns daily cooking from a chore into a pleasure. Whether you are making a quick breakfast before a morning hike or a proper dinner at the end of a long drive, the right combination of fridge, hob, sink, and storage makes all the difference. This guide covers every component of a practical campervan kitchen — from choosing between compressor and absorption fridges to laying out a galley that makes the most of limited space.
Campervan Fridges: Compressor vs Absorption
The fridge is typically the single largest electrical consumer in a campervan, running 24 hours a day. Choosing the right type is one of the most important decisions in a kitchen build.
12V Compressor Fridges
Compressor fridges use the same refrigeration technology as domestic fridges — a compressor, condenser, and refrigerant — but run directly from 12V DC power. They are highly efficient, work effectively regardless of ambient temperature, and maintain consistent internal temperatures. A quality 50-litre compressor fridge such as the Dometic CFX3 or Waeco CoolFreeze draws 30–50W when running and, because the compressor cycles on and off as needed, averages 20–40W — equating to roughly 40–80Ah per day on a 12V system.
Key advantages of compressor fridges:
- Operate effectively in ambient temperatures up to 40°C and above
- Can function as a freezer (many run to −18°C) as well as a fridge
- Work on any angle, though performance is best when level
- Cool food quickly from ambient temperature
- No gas supply required
Dometic, Waeco, Engel, and ARB are the leading brands in Europe for quality compressor fridges. Engel's rotary compressor design is particularly known for longevity and vibration resistance — important when roads are rough. Dometic's CFX3 series includes Bluetooth connectivity for temperature monitoring and adjustment from a phone.
Absorption Fridges (3-Way)
Absorption fridges operate on a completely different principle: heat drives a refrigeration cycle that uses ammonia, water, and hydrogen. They run silently (no moving parts), but require a heat source — either 12V DC, 230V AC, or LPG gas. On 12V DC, they draw 80–180W continuously and are far less efficient than compressor units. They are best used on 230V or gas, which is why they are common in motorhomes with hook-up access rather than self-built vans relying on solar.
Absorption fridges also cool less effectively in high ambient temperatures: when the outside temperature exceeds 25°C, internal temperatures creep up. They must be mounted close to level (within 3° or so) to function correctly. For a self-build van that will spend significant time off-grid, a compressor fridge is almost always the better choice.
| Feature | Compressor Fridge | Absorption Fridge |
|---|---|---|
| 12V efficiency | Excellent (30–50W average) | Poor (80–180W continuous) |
| Cooling in heat | Excellent | Moderate (degrades above 25°C ambient) |
| Noise | Low (intermittent compressor) | Silent |
| Can freeze | Yes (most models) | Usually, on gas or 230V only |
| Level requirement | None | Must be near-level |
| Best suited to | Off-grid, solar-powered builds | Campsite/hook-up users |
Sizing Your Fridge
For one person, 35–45 litres is generally sufficient for a week's shopping. For two people, 50–75 litres provides a comfortable margin. Larger 90–100 litre units are available for full-time living or extended touring, though they draw proportionally more power. Measure your cabinet space carefully before buying — standard internal widths in van builds vary widely, and many popular models are a very tight fit.
Hobs: Gas vs Induction
Cooking hobs for campervans come in two main types: LPG gas and induction. Each has genuine merits.
LPG Gas Hobs
Gas hobs are the traditional campervan cooking choice. They are independent of your battery system, provide instant, controllable heat, and work perfectly in cold weather when induction can struggle. Two-burner compact units (Smev, Dometic, Thetford) are standard in most factory-built motorhomes and caravan-style conversions.
The trade-offs are the need to carry and manage gas cylinders, a small risk of carbon monoxide if combustion gases are not adequately vented, and the administrative hassle of finding compatible gas cylinders when travelling across different European countries (UK calor fittings differ from German and Dutch standards). Campingaz cartridge hobs sidestep the fitting problem but are expensive to run on cartridges for extended travel.
Induction Hobs
Induction hobs are increasingly popular in electrically well-specified campervans. They require 230V AC from an inverter or hook-up, and draw 1,500–2,000W per ring. On a well-sized lithium battery bank with a pure sine wave inverter, this is perfectly manageable for cooking short meals — a typical 15-minute cooking session uses roughly 25–35Ah from a 12V system.
Advantages of induction:
- No gas supply needed — removes safety and regulatory complexity
- Easier to clean — flat glass surface with no burner grates
- No carbon monoxide risk
- More precise temperature control than gas
- Compact single-ring units fit neatly in small kitchens
For year-round vanlifers with 300Ah+ lithium banks and 300W+ of solar, a single-ring induction hob is a practical and convenient choice. For those with smaller battery setups or frequent wild camping without daily solar recharging, gas remains more dependable.
Hybrid Approach
Many experienced vanlifers use a single-burner gas hob for camping and a single-ring portable induction hob when connected to hook-up or running a large inverter. This covers all scenarios without committing entirely to one fuel type.
Sinks, Taps and Ventilation
Sinks
A stainless steel caravan sink with integrated drainer is the practical choice: durable, hygienic, and easy to clean. Bowl dimensions of 250–300mm × 200–250mm are standard in compact van kitchens. Composite granite sinks look attractive but are heavier and can crack in cold conditions. Whatever material you choose, ensure the drain connects to your grey water tank rather than draining under the van.
Taps
A mixer tap with a swivel spout gives the most flexibility in a compact sink. Look for a unit designed for low-pressure 12V systems — domestic taps often require 2.5–3 bar to operate correctly, while many campervan pumps run at 1.5–2 bar. Caravan-specific taps (Whale, Shurflo-compatible) are designed for this and are the sensible choice.
Ventilation
Cooking generates steam and cooking smells that, in an enclosed van, quickly cause condensation and discomfort. Even a simple roof vent (Maxxair or Fiamma) left cracked while cooking dramatically improves air quality. If you plan to use LPG gas regularly, a permanent low-level ventilator (required by most gas safety regulations in habited vehicles) and a high-level vented roof panel ensure safe ventilation of any gas build-up.
Food Storage
Space efficiency is everything in a campervan kitchen. A few principles that experienced vanlifers swear by:
- Decant dry goods into stackable square or rectangular containers — round containers waste corner space in square lockers.
- Use shallow pull-out drawers rather than deep lockers where things get buried.
- A door-mounted spice rack recovers unusable dead space behind cabinet doors.
- Magnetic knife strips are far more practical than knife blocks in moving vehicles.
- Cargo netting under the worktop uses vertical space that would otherwise be wasted.
- Store heavy items (canned goods, cooking oil) as low and as central as possible to keep the centre of gravity low and avoid sloshing on bends.
Campervan Kitchen Layouts
The kitchen layout is usually determined by the van's floor plan. Three configurations are most common.
Galley (Side-Mounted) Kitchen
The most common layout in long-wheelbase vans (VW Crafter, Mercedes Sprinter, Ford Transit). The kitchen runs along one or both sides of the van, with the fridge, hob, sink, and storage all in a continuous run. This maximises worktop length and provides excellent storage volume. The drawback is that you cook side-on and cannot see out of the van's rear doors easily while working.
Rear Kitchen
In some layouts, the kitchen occupies the rear of the van with the fridge, hob, and sink arranged along the back wall. This gives a more domestic feel and keeps cooking aromas away from the sleeping area. It works particularly well when rear barn doors are present — opening them gives an instant outdoor kitchen setup in fair weather.
Slide-Out / Rock-and-Roll Layouts
Some compact conversions (VW Transporter, Peugeot Boxer Day Van) use a fold-out kitchen unit stored against the wall that deploys for cooking. This maximises daytime living space at the expense of kitchen convenience. It suits weekend users rather than full-time travellers who cook three meals a day.
Worktops and Surfaces
The worktop is your primary food preparation surface and takes a lot of punishment. Options include:
| Material | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Laminate (Formica) | Lightweight, cheap, easy to cut, wide range of finishes | Edges swell if water-damaged, not heat-resistant |
| Solid oak/hardwood | Attractive, repairable, adds warmth | Heavier, needs periodic oiling, reacts to moisture |
| Corian / solid surface | Seamless, hygienic, heat-resistant | Expensive, heavy, specialist to cut and fit |
| Stainless steel | Extremely durable, hygienic, heat-proof | Industrial look, noisy, expensive if custom-made |
For most builds, 18mm plywood faced with a laminate sheet offers the best balance of weight, cost, and water resistance. Round all edges to prevent chips and seal all cut edges with silicone or edge banding to prevent water ingress.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best 12V fridge for a campervan?
Dometic's CFX3 range and the Engel series are consistently the most recommended for quality and reliability in the European market. Dometic offers Bluetooth temperature control; Engel's rotary compressor is exceptionally robust on rough roads. For the best energy efficiency, choose the smallest capacity that meets your needs — a 40-litre fridge uses noticeably less power than a 65-litre model running in the same conditions.
Can I run an induction hob from my campervan batteries?
Yes, provided you have a pure sine wave inverter rated to at least 2,000W and a battery bank of at least 200Ah lithium (or 300Ah AGM). A 10-minute cooking session at 1,500W draws approximately 21Ah from a 12V system. This is manageable for one to two meals per day with adequate solar recharging, but will deplete a modest battery bank quickly.
Do I need gas ventilation in a campervan?
If you are using LPG appliances (hob, heater, water heater), adequate ventilation is both a safety requirement and a legal matter in many European countries. Ensure a low-level ventilator (near the floor, as LPG is heavier than air) and a high-level outlet. Never seal or block these vents. A carbon monoxide detector is strongly recommended regardless of fuel type.
How do I stop things falling off shelves and worktops while driving?
Bungee cord rails or solid fiddle rails (30–50mm high) along the front edge of all shelves and worktops keep items in place on bends and roundabouts. Magnetic cupboard latches keep doors closed on movement. Store anything heavy in sealed lockers rather than on open shelves.
How much worktop space do I actually need in a campervan?
For one or two people cooking simple meals, 600–800mm of clear worktop is adequate. A full-time liveaboard who cooks proper meals daily will benefit from 900–1,200mm. A fold-out extension (a hinged worktop panel that drops flat against the cabinet when not in use) is a useful way to add preparation space without permanently occupying floor or bed area.
