Campervan Living Space: Windows, Skylights & Awnings
The quality of your campervan living space has an enormous effect on how long you actually enjoy living in it. Natural light, fresh air, a practical sleeping arrangement, and the ability to extend your usable space outdoors transform a van from a utilitarian shelter into somewhere you genuinely want to spend time. This guide covers the components that define the feel of a campervan interior — skylights, windows, awnings, beds, and storage — with practical advice on brands, sizing, and installation for UK, German, and Dutch builds.
Skylights and Roof Vents: Light and Ventilation Together
A rooflight serves two purposes: it admits natural light, which makes any interior feel far more spacious, and it provides ventilation when opened. For a vehicle that spends much of its time in northern Europe's grey skies, maximising daylight inside the van is worth prioritising in the design phase.
Maxxair MaxxFan Deluxe
The Maxxair MaxxFan is the most widely specified ventilation fan in the van conversion world. It fits a standard 280mm × 280mm roof cut-out, features a powered 10-speed fan in both intake and exhaust modes, and — uniquely — includes a lid that can remain open at up to 45° in light rain without water entering. The Deluxe model adds a thermostat function and remote control, allowing automatic temperature-regulated ventilation overnight.
The MaxxFan does not provide significant daylight: the lid is translucent but the fan blades block most light transmission. It is primarily a ventilation device, and an excellent one. Power draw is low — 3–8W depending on speed — making it easily compatible with even modest solar setups.
Dometic Heki and Heki Style
The Dometic Heki is the standard of the motorhome industry in Germany and the Netherlands, where it is found on the majority of Hymer, Knaus, and Bürstner vehicles. It is a proper skylight with a large transparent dome that admits substantial daylight while remaining waterproof when closed. The Heki includes an integrated flyscreen and a ventilation blind. The electric opening mechanism on the Heki Style makes it particularly convenient. Standard fitting dimensions are 700mm × 500mm, which requires a larger roof cut-out than a ventilation fan.
For a campervan conversion where daylighting is a priority, the Heki provides noticeably better natural light than any fan-based vent. Many builders fit both — a Heki for light and weather watching, and a MaxxFan for powered ventilation.
Fiamma Vent and Turbo Vent
Fiamma's roof vent range offers a middle ground between the pure ventilation of the MaxxFan and the daylighting focus of the Heki. The Turbo Vent 28 is a manually opening vent with an integrated 12V fan, fitting a standard 280mm × 280mm opening. The Fiamma Vent 28 is a ventilation-only unit without a fan. Both are well-built, widely available across Europe, and competitively priced.
Fitting Considerations
Cutting a roof opening is not reversible — take time to choose the location carefully. Position the vent over the living area rather than the cab. If fitting two units, place one towards the front of the living area and one towards the rear for effective through-flow ventilation. Seal around the frame with butyl tape and self-levelling lap sealant, not silicone, which does not bond well to van roofing materials and fails at the joints.
Campervan Windows: Types and Glazing
Additional side windows transform a van's interior from a cave into a bright, inviting living space. They also allow cross-ventilation from the side when parked in a breeze, which a roof vent alone cannot provide.
Sliding Windows
Sliding windows open horizontally — one pane slides behind the other. They are compact, the most common type on converted vans (VW T6, Mercedes Vito, Ford Transit Custom), and integrate neatly with the van's body lines when sourced from the same manufacturer. Branded options from Carbest and Kiravans suit most van body panels and include integrated flyscreen and roller blind.
Push-Out (Hopper) Windows
Hopper windows hinge at the top and push outward at the bottom. When partially open they direct airflow upward rather than horizontally, which is better for ventilation while parked in rain. They are often used in the kitchen area of motorhomes, positioned above the hob to help clear cooking steam. The downside is that they can catch wind when driving if accidentally left open.
Fixed Windows
Fixed, non-opening windows are used where light is the priority and ventilation is handled by other means (roof vents, opening side windows elsewhere). Panoramic fixed glazing in the rear of a van creates a spacious, airy feeling for a rear lounge or dining layout. They are cheaper to fit than opening equivalents and simpler to seal.
Single vs Double Glazing
Most caravan-specific windows are double-glazed, which significantly reduces condensation on the inner surface and improves thermal insulation. In UK and northern European winter conditions, single-glazed windows collect condensation every morning, requiring constant wiping. For year-round travel, double-glazed units are worth the additional cost. Carbest, Remis, and Hehr all produce double-glazed van conversion windows in a range of sizes.
| Window Type | Best For | Consideration |
|---|---|---|
| Sliding (single-pane) | Side ventilation, sleeping area | Single-glazed versions condense in winter |
| Hopper (push-out) | Kitchen ventilation | Can be left open accidentally while driving |
| Fixed panoramic | Rear lounge, daylighting | No ventilation; seal quality critical |
| Double-glazed (any type) | Year-round UK/DE/NL use | Higher cost, worth it for condensation control |
Campervan Awnings: Extending Your Living Space Outdoors
An awning doubles your usable living space when the weather cooperates, providing shade in summer and shelter from light rain in spring and autumn — both important in UK and northern European conditions where cloudy days with intermittent showers are the norm rather than the exception.
Wind-Out (Roller) Awnings
Wind-out awnings mount to the side of the van and unroll horizontally, supported by two legs. They provide an overhead canopy and can be used without leaving the vehicle side. Fiamma's F45 and F65 are the market standard, available in lengths from 2.3m to 4.5m and compatible with most van rooflines via adjustable wall brackets. The F45 is a manual wind-out; the F65 features an electric motor. Both are available in a range of canopy lengths and colours.
Thule (previously Omnistor) produces the G3 range, popular in Germany and the Netherlands, with a slightly more refined fabric tension system and a wider colour palette. For longer awnings on large panel vans or motorhomes, Thule G3 5200 and G3 6300 are excellent choices.
Browse our full selection of campervan and motorhome awnings.
Drive-Away Awnings
Drive-away awnings attach to a rail on the van's side and form a separate tent-like enclosure beside the vehicle. The key feature is the ability to unhitch the van and drive away without dismantling the awning, leaving the annexe standing as a base camp. This is particularly useful for families or those planning to stay several days at one location.
Outdoor Revolution, Vango, and Dometic all produce drive-away awnings sized for panel vans and motorhomes. Ensure the height range on any awning matches your van's rail height — the specification is usually given as a minimum and maximum height range. Universal-fit beach awnings with multiple guy rope points rather than a van rail attachment are more flexible but less weatherproof in sustained rain.
Choosing Awning Fabric
Acrylic canvas fabrics (as used in Fiamma and Thule awnings) are the most durable and UV-resistant, maintaining their colour and waterproofing over many years. Polyester fabrics, used in budget drive-away awnings, are lighter and cheaper but typically need re-proofing after a season or two of heavy use. For UK weather — frequent rain, occasional strong wind — acrylic is worth the premium on a permanently fitted awning.
Interior Layouts: Beds, Sofas and Living Areas
The sleeping arrangement is the most constrained and consequential decision in a campervan layout. Once the bed is positioned, everything else arranges around it.
Fixed vs Rock-and-Roll Beds
A fixed bed — permanent, always made up — is the most comfortable and convenient sleeping arrangement in a full-size van. No daily making and unmaking, and the space underneath provides excellent storage accessed through lift-up slats or side doors. Fixed beds can be lengthways (east-west, with the head at the cab end) or crossways (north-south, across the width of the van). A crossways double requires at least 1,900mm of interior width — achievable in a Sprinter, Transit, or Crafter, but tight in a Transit Custom.
Rock-and-roll seats convert into a flat bed: the seat base slides forward, and the seatback reclines to meet it, creating a sleeping surface. They maximise daytime living space and are practical in shorter-wheelbase vans. The drawback is making up the bed every night — fine for weekend use, tiring for full-time travel.
Dinettes and Dining
A dinette — two bench seats facing each other with a table between — provides a proper seated eating and working area. Many convert to a double bed by lowering the table and filling the gap with a cushion pad. Dinettes are more common in larger motorhomes than compact van conversions, where space is too limited to dedicate a full seating area to dining.
Fold-down tables (wall-mounted on a piano hinge or swivel bracket) are more space-efficient in compact vans: they fold flush against the wall when not in use and deploy for eating, working, or map-reading. A table leg folds down or a wall-mount support swings out to stabilise it.
Storage: Overhead Lockers, Under-Bed and Garage
Efficient storage in a campervan is an exercise in thinking in three dimensions. Every cubic centimetre has the potential to carry something useful.
- Overhead lockers: Fitted above windows and along the roofline, overhead lockers are perfect for lightweight, regularly needed items — toiletries, first aid, maps, clothing. Keep heavy items out of overhead lockers to prevent them becoming projectiles in an accident.
- Under-bed garage: The space under a fixed bed is the van's primary storage volume. In a Sprinter or Transit, this can be 600–800 litres — enough for camping chairs, outdoor equipment, tools, and spare parts. Access via barn doors at the rear is the most convenient arrangement.
- Drawers: Full-extension drawers under the kitchen worktop or bed base are far more practical than deep lockers where things get buried. Soft-close undermount drawer slides (Blum or equivalent) hold up well to vibration and provide smooth operation for years.
- Vertical space: A row of hooks, a magnetic knife strip, a small fold-out step for upper lockers — vertical surfaces are underused in most van builds. Think about what currently sits on flat surfaces and whether it could be hung instead.
Privacy and Light Control
Window blinds and thermal screens perform double duty: privacy when parked in public and thermal insulation at night. Purpose-made Carbest or Remis roller blinds fit inside the window frame and do not interfere with opening. Blackout blinds on the cab windows are important for city parking — the standard curtain or cab blind is rarely fully blackout.
Thermal reflective screens (the "foil windscreen covers" used by motorhomers) work both ways: they reflect solar heat away in summer and retain interior heat in winter. Purpose-cut screens for specific van models fit more neatly than generic versions and are worth sourcing from specialist suppliers.
Frequently Asked Questions
Which is better — a Maxxair fan or a Dometic Heki?
They serve different primary purposes. The Maxxair MaxxFan is principally a ventilation device with variable-speed extraction and intake — ideal for air circulation, condensation control, and overnight comfort. The Dometic Heki is primarily a skylight that admits substantial natural light and provides passive ventilation. For a single-vent build, choose based on priority: light (Heki) or active airflow (Maxxair). Many builders fit both if the roof area allows.
What size awning do I need for a campervan?
Measure the length of your van's usable side (excluding wheel arches and the driver's cab) and choose an awning that fits within that footprint. A 3m awning suits most short-wheelbase conversions; a 3.5m–4m unit is appropriate for a long-wheelbase panel van or motorhome. The projection (how far the awning extends from the van side) is typically 2m for most roller awnings — sufficient for a table and chairs underneath.
How do I fit windows to a campervan?
Mark the cut-out on the van panel using a card template (usually supplied with the window kit), drill entry holes at the corners, and cut with a jigsaw fitted with a fine metal-cutting blade. Clean and treat the cut edge with rust-inhibiting primer immediately. Bed the window frame on a continuous bead of butyl tape, secure with the supplied clamps or screws, and seal the outer edge with self-levelling lap sealant. Allow the sealant to cure for 24 hours before driving in rain.
Can I fit an awning to any campervan?
Fiamma F45 and Thule G3 awnings fit most panel vans and motorhomes via adjustable wall brackets or roof rail adaptor kits. Check the manufacturer's fitting list for your specific van model before purchasing. High-roof vans may require specific bracket extensions to bring the awning mounting point to the correct height. Vans with rain gutters (rafter rails) along the roof edge provide a more secure mounting point than flat-roof vehicles.
What is the best bed layout for a campervan?
For full-time living, a fixed permanent bed accessible from the side is the most comfortable and practical choice — no daily setup, and storage underneath is excellent. For weekend users in shorter vans, a rock-and-roll seat/bed is the most space-efficient option. If two people of different heights need to sleep comfortably, a crossways double in a long-wheelbase Sprinter or Transit provides a full 1,900mm+ sleeping width suitable for most couples.
